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Subho Bijoya Dashami to all of you!
I know many of you are feeling sad because Maa Durga has left us and returned to her husband's home, where Lord Shiva awaits her. Now, we have to wait another year to welcome her back and seek her blessings to overcome the evil within and around us.
But as someone experiencing Durga Puja in Kolkata for the first time, I have many memories to share. The celebrations here surprised me in so many ways. The enormous queues, the eagerness of people to catch a glimpse of Maa Durga, the beautifully decorated pandals and the energy on the streets are difficult to describe in words.
In this blog, I will share my first-hand experience of Durga Puja 2026, the differences I noticed compared with other states, my two-day pandal-hopping plan, the transport I used, and some important tips for future visitors.
- 1. Mahalaya: The Beginning of the Festive Spirit
- 2. What Surprised Me About Kolkata Durga Puja
- 3. VIP Passes and Pandal Hopping
- 4. Crowds, Safety and the Chorebagan Incident
- 5. How to Plan Your Pandal-Hopping Journey
- 6. Morning Visit or Evening Visit?
- 7. Route Maps and Useful Websites
- 8. My First Day: North Kolkata Pandals
- 9. My Second Day: South Kolkata Pandals
- 10. Other Pandals
- 11. Bijoya Dashami: The City After the Celebration
- 12. My Final Thoughts
1. Mahalaya: The Beginning of the Festive Spirit
For many Bengalis, the excitement of Durga Puja begins with Mahalaya. You can easily hear the famous devotional programme Mahishasura Mardini playing on streets, in homes and in shops.
Its beautiful chants, music and recitations create a special atmosphere. Listening to them can make you feel peaceful from within. For me, the entire experience feels almost magical.
In Durga Puja 2026, I also came across reports and discussions about a Mahalaya celebration and drone show at Eden Gardens. The event was described as a special beginning to the festivities, with prominent political leaders reportedly attending. and also The Chingrighata Flyover in Kolkata was painted wih rainbow color to start the festival, but it soon removed after complaining of skidding of 2 wheelers after the rain.
If similar events are organised for Durga Puja 2027, keep an eye on instagram and facebook posts on how to buy the tickets. I actually missed that programme.
2. What Surprised Me About Kolkata Durga Puja
A. The queues are unbelievably long
One of the biggest differences I noticed was the length of the queues. Even on Panchami and Sasthi, when the main celebrations had not yet reached their peak, some popular pandals already had enormous crowds.
In my experience, you could spend at least two hours waiting just to enter certain pandals. Imagine standing in a queue for so long simply to get a glimpse of Maa Durga!
And do not assume that the crowds will disappear after midnight. Even at 2:00 AM or 3:00 AM, many streets can remain packed with people. Kolkata truly comes alive during Durga Puja, and the excitement continues late into the night.
Transport arrangements may also differ from normal days, especially around Ashtami and Navami. Do not assume that metro services are stopped, metro operate until 4:00 AM and restart at 1:00 PM everywhere. Always check the official Metro Railway Kolkata timetable for the particular date and service.
B. Non-vegetarian food stalls near pandals
Another difference I noticed was the availability of non-vegetarian food stalls inside or around some Durga Puja campuses.
In some other states, I had generally seen fewer non-vegetarian food stalls near religious celebrations. In Kolkata, however, I noticed that food stalls offering different types of food could be found within some puja grounds.
This was a new experience for me and one of the cultural differences that stood out during my visit.
C. Big brands selling their products through ordinary stalls
I was also surprised to see how large brands participated in the celebrations.
For example, I noticed brands such as KFC selling their products through simple stalls inside puja campuses. I had expected large franchise brands to operate only from their usual, well-designed outlets, but here the stalls blended into the festive atmosphere like other food stalls.
I also noticed advertisements for Boroline beside roads. It was interesting to see a familiar and established brand promoting itself in this way during a major festival.
These small observations made me realise that Kolkata Durga Puja is not just a religious celebration. It is also a major social, cultural and commercial event.
3. VIP Passes and Pandal Hopping
Another thing I learnt about Kolkata Durga Puja was the availability of VIP or special-entry passes for certain pandals.
During my planning, I found that special-entry passes were being offered through platforms such as BookMyShow and, in some cases, offline arrangements. Depending on the pandal and the pass, these could provide a different entry arrangement from the regular queue.
The prices I encountered were around ₹800–₹1,000. However, prices, availability and entry rules may vary considerably between pandals and dates.
Now, let us talk about another term that becomes especially important during Kolkata Durga Puja: pandal hopping.
Pandal hopping means visiting one Durga Puja pandal after another to admire the different themes, decorations, artistic designs and idols created by various clubs and organisers.
Some pandals become extremely popular, and people are willing to wait for hours to see them. The creativity and effort put into these temporary structures make the experience special.
However, since every pandal has its own unique theme, I do not want to rank or compare them unfairly. I had limited time, so I focused on places I had heard about through the internet, local people and friends.
4. Crowds, Safety and the Chorebagan Incident
When I spoke to local people, I heard two different opinions about the crowds.
Some people told me that the crowds were smaller than in previous years and that some pandals had opened later than expected. Others believed that Instagram Reels, YouTube Shorts and other social-media content had encouraged more people to travel long distances to visit famous pandals.
Both opinions helped me understand how differently people experienced the same festival. Crowd levels could also vary from one location to another and from one day to the next.
Unfortunately, I also became concerned after hearing about a reported crowd-related tragedy at Chorebagan in West Bengal, where people reportedly died and others were injured.
May those who lost their lives rest in peace, and may their families find the strength to cope with their loss. I also wish a speedy recovery to everyone who was injured.
At around the same time, I was standing in the queue at Santosh Mitra Square. It was raining, and the crowd was beginning to push forward. I became frightened that a similar situation might occur there.
Thankfully, the police and civic volunteers managed the crowd at the location where I was standing. I am grateful to them for their efforts, especially because they were working during a festival when they would also have wanted to spend time with their own families.
I had already noticed large crowds at several famous pandals from the Mahalaya period onwards. That experience changed the way I thought about visiting them.
My biggest lesson was simple: enjoying Durga Puja is important, but returning home safely is even more important.
5. How to Plan Your Pandal-Hopping Journey
Kolkata has many beautiful pandals, and it is impossible to visit all of them comfortably in a short period. Therefore, I decided to divide my journey into two days.
- Day 1: Focus on selected North Kolkata pandals.
- Day 2: Focus on selected South Kolkata pandals
My target was to finish the main part of each day's journey by around 1:00 PM. This was a personal decision based on my experience of the crowds and my concern about visiting during the busiest evening hours.
I noticed that the crowds could begin building up well before evening, particularly near famous pandals. Therefore, I preferred not to wait until late afternoon to start my journey.
6. Morning Visit or Evening Visit?
Option A: Start early in the morning
If your priority is to see the decorations peacefully and avoid the largest crowds, an early-morning visit may be worth considering. I preferred to begin around 6:00 AM.
At that time, some pandals may be relatively less crowded, allowing you to look at their designs and decorations without being pushed along by a large queue.
However, there are disadvantages too:
- Many decorative lights may not be switched on, so you may miss the full visual effect.
- The weather can become hot and uncomfortable as the day progresses.
- Metro and local train services may not be available at every time you need them. Check the official timetable.
I considered hiring a scooter or using a two-wheeler to cover more ground, but I would recommend doing so only where parking, access and traffic conditions make it practical. During peak puja hours, restricted roads and pedestrian crowds can make riding difficult.
Carry drinking water and stay hydrated. usually 10rs, drinking water, as it easy to carry everywhere.
Option B: Visit during the evening
If you want to see the pandals illuminated, the evening is attractive. However, it is also a time when crowds can become extremely heavy.
I initially considered starting around 3:30 PM, but the experience made me realise that travelling through busy roads could be difficult.
My advice is to avoid renting a vehicle merely to move between famous pandals during peak hours. Many roads may have restrictions, parking can be difficult, and the entry and exit gates may be far apart.
Walking and public transport may be more practical, depending on the route and crowd-control arrangements.
Allow more time than Google Maps suggests
This is one of the most useful lessons from my trip.
Google Maps may show the distance between two locations, but the actual time required to visit a pandal can be much longer. You may have to walk a considerable distance to reach the entry gate, wait in a queue, move through the pandal and then walk again to find the exit or your next mode of transport.
Therefore, plan with a generous time allowance. Do not assume that a short distance on the map means a quick visit.
7. Route Maps and Useful Websites
Before starting your pandal-hopping journey, make a list of the pandals you want to visit and arrange them according to their geographical locations.
These websites may help you discover popular pandals and prepare a route:
These tools can be useful for planning, but I noticed that some roads and directions could be detected incorrectly. Therefore, cross-check the route with Google Maps and follow the actual road signs and police directions on the day.
My Durga Puja pandal-hopping route map. Use it as a planning reference and verify current routes before travelling.
8. My First Day: North Kolkata Pandals
On the first day, I planned to visit selected pandals in North Kolkata. Here is the route I followed and the transport I used.
Stop 1: Sealdah to Dum Dum Junction
- I started from Sealdah Railway Station and took a local train to Dum Dum Junction.
- After reaching Dum Dum Junction, I considered app-based bike services(uber or ola) or a scooter to reach the first pandal.
- I did not find the local auto option I tried particularly convenient, because it dropped me some distance away and the fare quoted to me was around ₹50. In my experience, that did not seem worth it for that particular journey.
- If you use an auto, clearly tell the driver that you want to go to Dum Dum Park and confirm the destination and fare before starting.
Stop 2: Dum Dum Park Tarun Dal and Bharat Chakra
There are two prominent pandals in this area that I planned to visit:
- Dum Dum Park Tarun Dal
- Dum Dum Park Bharat Chakra
The distance between the two locations is approximately 532 metres, based on my route planning. Since they are relatively close to one another, you may be able to visit both on foot.
Stop 3: Sreebhumi Club Durga Mahotsav
After visiting the Dum Dum Park pandals, I went to the VIP Bus Stop and boarded a bus towards Sreebhumi Bus Stop.
From there, I walked to Sreebhumi Club Durga Mahotsav. Allow extra time for walking and crowd management around the entrance.
Stop 4: Tala Prattoy
After visiting Sreebhumi, I planned my journey towards Tala Prattoy.
One option was to book an app-based bike(uber or ola). Another option was to travel towards Ultadanga Road and then take an auto towards Kolkata Railway Station. The fare I encountered for that auto journey was around ₹20(ultadanga road to kolkata railway station)
From Kolkata Railway Station, I took a local train to Tala Railway Station. Tala Barowari is in the nearby area, while Tala Prattoy requires a separate journey of approximately 2.2 km from the location I was using as my reference.
You can consider an auto or an app-based bike(uber or ola) for this final stretch.
Stop 5: Bagbazar Sarbojanin
After Tala Prattoy, I planned to visit Bagbazar Sarbojanin.
You may be able to book an app-based bike for this journey. Another possibility is to return to Tala Railway Station and take a local train towards Bagbazar Railway Station, followed by a walk to the pandal.(last train 11:52 am, next train 3:20 pm FROM TALA TO BAGBAZAR)
Train schedules can change, particularly during festivals, so confirm the service timings before relying on this option.
Stop 6: Kumartuli Park or Sovabazar Rajbari
After Bagbazar Sarbojanin, you can consider visiting Kumartuli Park, which I estimated to be around 1.1 km away, or head towards Sovabazar Rajbari for a more traditional Durga Puja experience.
At Sovabazar Rajbari, I enquired about the puja prasad and was told that it was available on Ashtami and Navami for around ₹600.
However, the arrangement I encountered looked more like a wedding buffet than the traditional prasad experience I had expected. I also felt that there were not enough seats for people to sit comfortably.
Personally, I did not feel that it was worth the price for me. This is only my individual experience, and other visitors may feel differently.
Ending the first day
By around 1:00 PM, the crowds were beginning to build up. I decided to take the metro from Sovabazar-Sutanuti.
The metro was crowded, and I noticed that many passengers were getting off at Kalighat. This gave me an idea of how busy the city's transport system could become during the festival.
By then, I had completed my first day's selected North Kolkata route.
9. My Second Day: South Kolkata Pandals
On the second day, I started early again because I wanted to finish my selected South Kolkata route by around 1:00 PM.
Stop 1: Ballygunge Junction
I got off at Ballygunge Junction and walked approximately 628 metres to the first pandal on my route i.e. Ekdalia Evergreen
From there, I continued to Singhi Park Sarbojanin, which was approximately 342 metres away according to my route planning.
These locations were reasonably well connected for my itinerary. During puja, following the designated pedestrian route and official directions can help you reach the correct entrance or simply follow the crowd.
Stop 2: Tridhara Sammilani
After visiting Singhi Park, I went to Basanti Devi Bus Stop and boarded a bus towards Tridhara Bus Stop.
From there, I visited Tridhara Sammilani.
Stop 3: Deshapriya Park
Next, I walked to Deshapriya Park, approximately 408 metres from my previous stop.
I noticed that toilets were available in this area, which can be helpful when you are spending several hours outside during pandal hopping.
Stop 4: Ballygunge Cultural and Samaj Sebi Sangha
From Deshapriya Park, I walked approximately 546 metres to Ballygunge Cultural.
After that, I continued to Samaj Sebi Sangha, which was around 137 metres away according to my route plan.
These stops fitted into my walking route without requiring a separate long-distance journey between every pandal.
Stop 5: Lake Gardens Railway station To Suruchi Sangha
After visiting Samaj Sebi Sangha, I booked an app-based bike(uber or ola) to Lake Gardens Railway Station.
From there, I took a local train to New Alipore Railway Station and continued towards Suruchi Sangha.
Remember to check the train schedule and the actual walking distance from the station to the pandal before travelling.
Stop 6: Alipore Sarbojanin
After Suruchi Sangha, I went towards the New Alipore petrol pump, where I found an auto towards Alipore Sarbojanin.
During the festival, I noticed that directions to some pandals were displayed along the roads, which helped with navigation.
After visiting Alipore Sarbojanin, I walked approximately 721 metres to Chetla Agrani.
Stop 7: Behala Club
After Chetla Agrani, I took an auto towards New Alipore Railway Station. The fare I encountered was around ₹15–₹20.
I then travelled by local train towards Majherhat Railway Station. From there, I took a bus towards Behala Thana Bus Stop.
After reaching Behala Thana, I walked or considered taking an auto or by walk to Behala Club, approximately 500 metres away from the bus stop according to my route plan.
Stop 8: Behala Natun Dal
After visiting Behala Club, I returned towards Behala Thana Bus Stop by local auto.
From there, I continued on foot to Behala Natun Dal.
Stop 9: Barisha Club and Barisha Sarbojanin
After Behala Natun Dal, I went towards Behala Notun Bazar Bus Stop and took a bus towards Sakher Bazar.
From there, I visited Barisha Club and then Barisha Sarbojanin.
Personally, I did not find Barisha Sarbojanin particularly special compared with the places I had prioritised. If you have limited time, you may decide to skip it and focus on other pandals. However, this is just my personal opinion, not a judgement of the pandal or the work of its organisers.
Ending the second day
By this point, I was extremely tired after walking, changing transport and visiting so many pandals.
I finally booked an app-based bike(uber or ola) and returned home.
My two-day journey taught me that visiting many pandals is possible with planning, but it can also be physically exhausting. Choose a realistic number of places rather than trying to visit every famous pandal in one day.
10. Other Pandals
You can make plans to visit udyan sangha at nagtala, pancha durga, naba durga at Garia, & Patuli durga mahotsav, near Sahid Khudiram metro stop, in one stretch.
11. Bijoya Dashami: The City After the Celebration
When Bijoya Dashami arrived, I went outside again and noticed a completely different atmosphere.
The crowds had almost disappeared from the roads I visited. The streets looked much clearer, and many of the temporary barricades were no longer there.
I asked someone why the city had become so quiet. I was told that the immersion process began after around 7:00 PM in the places they were familiar with, as people started taking Maa Durga for immersion.
I also noticed something interesting about the processions.
Earlier, I had often imagined people walking together, dancing and singing as they accompanied Maa Durga towards immersion. During my visit, however, I noticed that in some places, people were travelling in smaller groups on two-wheelers.
It was a striking contrast to the packed streets and enormous queues I had witnessed during pandal hopping.
After several days of intense celebration, Kolkata seemed to take a deep breath. The change in atmosphere was almost unbelievable.
12. My Final Thoughts
My first experience of Durga Puja in Kolkata was full of surprises. I saw beautiful pandals, experienced enormous crowds, travelled through different parts of the city, learnt how locals planned their journeys and discovered how much effort goes into organising such a massive celebration.
I also learnt that a successful pandal-hopping journey depends on more than simply choosing famous locations. You need to plan your route, understand transport options, allow extra time for queues, carry water and remain aware of your surroundings.
Most importantly, do not let the desire to see one more pandal put your safety at risk. No photograph, decoration or idol is worth getting caught in a dangerous crowd.
I could not visit every pandal, and I do not want to compare them unfairly. Each one has its own theme, artistic contribution and significance for the people who organise and visit it.
As a first-time visitor, I can say that Kolkata Durga Puja gave me memories that I will cherish for a long time.
Until Our Next Journey!
Okay, friends, ta-ta for now! I will meet you again with another exciting journey and new experiences.
Until then, I pray to Maa Durga to keep her blessings upon all of us, give us the strength to overcome evil and help us stay safe and happy.
Subho Bijoya Dashami! Jai Maa Durga!
Thank you for reading my first-hand Durga Puja experience on artist HINDUSTANI.
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